UMATHUM ROSA ROSÉ 2020
By David Keck
We are proud to introduce the wines of Josef ‘Pepi’ Umathum (Oom-a-toom) to the great state of Vermont, starting with this absolutely delicious and crushable rosé.
The Umathum estate consists of 60 hectares, farmed organically and biodynamically, with a focus on Austria’s indigenous varieties. Beyond the expected Rotburger (Zweigelt), Blaufränkisch, and Sankt Laurent, there is also Welschriesling, Roter Traminer, Gelber Traminer (ever heard of that one??), even Lindenblättriger (Hárslevelu as it is known in Hungary… of course).
Umathum has varied soils throughout some very famous vineyards in the Neusiedlersee region of Burgenland, including terraced vineyards in the village of Jois that are mentioned as part of the Hungarian royal family holdings as early as 1214! Hallebühl, Vom Stein, and Haideboden, all in the village of Frauenkirchen, provide fruit for many of his bottlings, including the sought-after single-vineyard releases.
In the vineyard, they are biodynamic, completely hand-harvested, and in the winery, very traditionally Austrian. Most of the wines see élévage in large Austrian oak barrels, while a very small portion goes into barriques—exclusively for the more high-toned single-vineyard bottlings.
We are starting with the recent release of the 2020 Umathum Rosa Rosé. The grapes are all grown in gravel and schistous soils in the Jois and Frauenkirchen villages. Made in the saignée (the juice is ‘bled’ off the grape skins) method, the wine is produced with equal parts Sankt Laurent, Blaufränkisch, and Zweigelt. There is minimal intervention in the solar-powered winery, and the wine tastes beautifully fresh, ripe, vibrant, and full of summery red fruit. There is a little spice and weight to the wine, giving it the ability to pair well with many different food options. We got a small allocation in our first year, so get it while you can!