Moric
By David Keck
The wines of Roland Velich at Moric winery (pronounced More-itz) confound any notion that Blaufränkisch might not be a noble variety or that Austria is a country primarily for white wine. The wines produced by Roland in his winery in Grosshöflein are truly unique, ageworthy, and show a sense of place in Burgenland that is very special.
VT Wine Shepherd is excited to be bringing these wines into the 802 and the effusive commentary above is truly warranted. David started working with the wines of Moric over a decade ago, and from the straight Blaufränkisch up to the single vineyard ‘Alte Reben’ (old vine) bottlings, can attest to the fact that these wines are really for Burgundy and Northern Rhône drinkers. Why?
Burgundy and the Northern Rhône are two areas that focus on varietal wines (wines made from one variety) and as a result, tend to show that variety as an expression of specific soil types and winemaking choices in a very different way than wines that are produced by blending. Blaufränkisch also has some of the dark, brooding character of Syrah, while retaining the lightness on the palate and bright red fruit that Pinot Noir can bring.
We started with two wines from Moric: the OG Blaufränkisch 2018 and a blend of Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner called ‘Hausmarke’ or ‘House Wine’ which is a serious understatement for this silky, bright, subtle and delicious wine that he also dubbed ‘Supernatural’ in a tongue-in-cheek commentary on the ‘Natural Wine’ movement. We also carry one wine that is not, in fact, made by Roland but rather by Philipp Oser of Villa Tolnay on the banks of Lake Balaton in Hungary.
Roland started the Hidden Treasures project with Attila Hommona of Tokaj and has since expanded to numerous small producers across the Pannonian Basin, highlighting small producers doing amazing work. The wine from Villa Tolnay is NR3 and is a blend of Riesling and Furmint (the spectacular white grape that makes the famous sweet wines of Tokaj, but is also beautiful as a dry white wine).
We do not (currently!) have inventory on the Reserve and Alte Reben wines from Moric, but send David an email at davidkeck@vtbeershepherd.com if you are interested and we can track down what is available from Winemonger. The wines from his ‘Grand Cru’ sites of Neckenmarkt and Lutzmannsberg occasionally have some older vintages available and are worth buying to lay down for a decade or more.
Moving into summer, all of the wines currently in inventory are amazing values and pair perfectly with all the Spring vegetables, lamb, basically everything that you want to be eating right now.