Kolfok

By David Keck

Let’s get dorky today and talk about what is cool and new and interesting in the wine world in Austria! Kolfok is regional dialect in Burgenland for an unconventional thinker, someone who goes against the grain. And Stefan Wellanschitz is precisely that.

Stefan started his own winery in 2013, moving away from his family’s more conventional winery that has been operating since the 19th century in the village of Neckenmarkt, on the Hungarian border. Stefan wanted to focus on a more natural, non-interventionist style of winemaking, and Kolfok is the result of that perspective.

Neckenmarkt is at a relatively high elevation (500m) and has a conglomeration of different soil types, from schist, gneiss, and limestone in the higher elevations, to ferrous loam and clay in the lower areas. 

Stefan’s webpage starts by saying: “Meine Weine werden nicht produziert oder gemacht;” My wine is is neither produced, nor made. He goes on to say that his wines are given freedom and that he works as observer. The grapes are grown organically with herbs and other plants co-planted in the vineyards to ‘prevent monoculture.’

We are excited to start working with these wines that are vibrant, alive, and speak of the intersection of cultures and soils that all make this region in Austria so unique. To begin with we have these two wines, but look for future releases!

Cheers!

Kolfok ‘Intra! The Wild’ 2019

Stefan wanted to make an ‘orange’ wine or skin-fermented white wine, without the often present tannin and austerity that can come with that technique, so this wine is actually made with Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling that go through a carbonic (intracellular) fermentation for about 9 weeks before being pressed and going through traditional fermentation. The result is a wine that is just slightly orange, but clean, beautifully made, and with amazing texture. Perfect for dishes that call for a more intense white wine—roast pork, grilled chicken, Pad Thai, etc. etc. etc. Or just drinking by itself. 

Kolfok ‘Querschnitt’ Weiss 2017

Made with Grüner Veltliner & Co., this wine blends in some Chardonnay and Muscat as well as the famous Austrian white grape variety. Harvested and fermented separately, the blend is then composed in the summer of the following year. Querschnitt means ‘cross-section’ and here that refers to soils as well as grape varieties! Aromatic and rich without being overpowering or too perfumed, this is a perfect wine for Spring cuisine.