The Sadie Family Wines
A picture Eben sent me of Semillon Gris planted in 1887!
By David Keck
Sometimes you deserve the best. You survived August’s muggy heat; you have dealt with the chaos of 2020 that seems to be continuing into 2021; you managed to finish that one last house project before the chaos of Fall; maybe you just made it through Monday. Whatever the cause, sometimes it is the right day to open a truly exceptional bottle of wine.
Over here at VT Wine Shepherd, I’ve hesitated to write or even talk much about the truly epic wines of Eben Sadie, because in other markets these wines are gone to restaurants and collectors often before most people even know they’ve been in stock. Last fall we received a small allocation of the Sadie Family wines, and every time one of them is tried, the rest of the 2 case allocation disappeared (Skerpieon is long gone, and Pofadder all went in one wine dinner!). But we have a few of them left. All of them are cellar-worthy, so if there are collectors out there who want something new and interesting, this might be for them. They also drink exceptionally well right out of the gate.
First let’s talk about the man, the myth, the legend himself, Eben Sadie. Eben is a wildly charismatic man in the way that only a pioneering, surfing, globe-trotting South African can be. He is a story-teller and can captivate a crowd, but also seems equally at home as a lone wolf, wandering the countryside of Swartland, seeking out undiscovered old-vine vineyards.
Eben has produced wines in Germany, Austria, France, Italy, the US and in Spain. He has been dubbed ‘a national asset’ for South African winemaking and is known as the ‘most influential winemaker in South Africa’ and I think few would contest that. His top wines are the most sought-after and collected wines from South Africa and Columella is the only wine from South Africa to get more than 95 points from Wine Spectator (if you’re into the point thing).
Why, other than the reasons above, are these wines pricey? One of my favorite questions in the wine business is “WHY?” does a wine cost what it does. I like to support the Sadie Family wines because the answer is easy—he’s working with low yielding vines all over the region, and to produce a little over 5000 cases every year, there are 7 people in management, 5 on the farm, 14 in the vineyards, and during the growing season, 20 more people join in. That’s 47 people to make these wines the way they need to be made.
The wines are released the last Monday in July, and by 8:45am the wine is sold out. 8% comes to the US with Broadbent, our importer. That’s one of the two largest customers. The following wines all have extremely limited availability, as you would assume, but we would also like them to end up in good hands! New vintages should hit this fall, including some truly spectacular new wines…
COLUMELLA
Syrah/Mourvèdre, with Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca 2018
The flagship red wine. Eben makes about 40 barrels of this wine, a blend that is driven by Syrah. 70% Whole cluster with about 10% new oak. From a drought year, so extra concentrated, but still elegant and built to last for decades to come. 98 points from Tim Atkin, MW who says it is ‘One of the best ever Columellas.’
PALLADIUS
White Blend 2018
Palladius is an ‘appellation’ wine according to Eben. It includes 11 different white varieties that represent all the white grapes grown in Swartland. The blend is Chenin Blanc (dominating), Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette, Semillon, Semillon Gris, Verdelho, Colombard, and Palomino. It is aged in clay amphorae. Rich without being too over-the-top, well-balanced, structured, only 13.5% but full of power and as age worthy as they come.
COLUMELLA
Syrah/Mourvèdre, with Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault 2013
It is amazing to taste this wine with a little age on it. A selection from 8 different vineyards, this wine is dark fruited and brooding, but developing beautifully in the bottle. 96 points from Wine Advocate… Very special to have some available and as one of the brighter and lower-alcohol Columellas in the history of the wine (now 20+ vintages), it is absolutely delicious now.
TREINSPOOR
Tinta Barocca 2019
Eben says that Tinta Barocca is one of the most emblematic grapes of Swartland—coming from Portugal where it was a huge player in Port from the Douro before Phylloxera reduced its efficacy— it has been growing in the Swartland region of South Africa for a very long time. It has been growing in the Swartland region of South Africa for a very long time. This wine is made from vines planted in 1974, and shows the character of this variety beautifully. Eben says to think of Syrah and Nebbiolo—it is floral and lifted, but also spicy and brooding. Terrific now, but I’d also like to see it in 5-10 years. As if anyone will hold onto it that long.